Copacabana…

Alps 2014

Arriving in Geneva again to poor weather and then to Chaminox to the Midi lift closed due to high winds, Craig and I knew they were already onto plan E.

Next day, the CLAG filled the valley and the rock was wet so we headed up into the mist to find the Cosmique Arete. This was a good idea and we found conditions good on route with the odd sunny spell between the clap of thunder and the sound of avalanches happening in the distance.

Next day with an AM weather window we headed to the Petit Vert to climb the North Face variation. It was like a cats cradle on the summit with at least 30 ropes. Abseiling down the route of ascent worked best for us on the day with café Americano at the cable way café and some demons exercised.

Next up, the Cosmique Arete again this time in super Scottish conditions. We moved fast overtaking all guided and non guided parties on route to finish in super fast time on the platform.

The weather over the next couple of days looked poor for all of the alpine regions so we headed out of the valley to Sass Grund to check it was still there. It was and so was Golda and the warm and relaxed Heino hotel. We headed up on the hill the next day for the Alallinhorn by the normal route but with 600mm of new unstable snow/graupel it was never going to happen. We dug some pits and decided to return to Feltskin and walk to the Brittiania Hut for Coffeesnapps. In the afternoon we headed up to Hohsass to look at the Weismiss, which was hidden mostly in cloud.

We headed back to Cham in the rain taking in Zermatt for coffee and a look for a new bazzy (baseball cap) for Craig.

It had rained non stop in the valley while we were in Switzerland so the only safe option was, yes the Cosmique Arete again, this had totally changed in character with most of the route buried; indeed the crux crack was a good metre shorter than the previous journeys. The route was busy with mostly guided parties (French Itallian and German) so at the usual bottle necks we tried our best bumming food, starting a snowball fight and trying to get an international choir going…

Feeling acclimatised and seeing a weather window for our last full day, up again we went with 3 routes in mind. We burst through the cloud and had decent vis on the Valley Blanc so plan A it had to be and off we plodded in direction of the Triangle du Tacul and the Chere Couloir.

This gives good climbing on 60-80º ice and feels very Scottish in character (especially when it started snowing) and is quite reminiscent (to us anyway) of Point 5 and Green Gully on the Ben. Some super slick abseiling had us back on the VB, packed and heading for the slog up the 'walk of death' before we descended into the mist and rain of the valley.

All in a great trip making the best of the conditions, the Pizza at Casa Valerie and the beer at Monkey.

Testing some new kit, the Bergelmit Jackets and Vanir Salopettes performed very well with the mixed conditions and getting the "eye" on route and in town, thanks Tommy.

Some pics from the trip...

 

 

 

 

3 mins...

Feeling like I needed to give my legs and lungs a workout I heading up the front face of the Cobbler from Glen Crow for my favorite beasting ... Cobbler - Bealach a’ Mhaim - Beinn Narnain back down to the Bealach and up to the summit of Beinn Ime in 2hrs 53min, 

A full 3 mins slower than the last time (here). If I run off the Cobbler and Beinn Narnain I bet I could shave 10 mins easy !

No pics today.

 

Its all in the maths…

31 May 2013

Gerry, Murray and I headed to Buachaille Etive Mor on Saturday to climb North Face Route (S4a). The day started with wet feet crossing the river at Jackson Ville , but the sun was out and it was warm on the walk.

I headed up the first pitch and then Gerry and I swung leads over 8 pitches on immaculate rock. Climbing as a three is a bit off a faff but the belays are more sociable and Murray gets to take loads of pics when not on belay duty.

We down climbed curved ridge and headed for the hut in the sunshine.

A 5 star day with a dook in the river to finish… movie here on the steaming boots movie channel.

 

Croissant bending...

18 May 2014

With the weather forecast falling to bits for the weekend climbing, Gerry and I headed to the Coe to climb North Buttress. Both of us have climbed this route many times (Gerry knows every nut placement) but never together, so it made sense given the rain was battering down and we both wanted more than a walk.

Gerry headed off up the first pitch with water running down his sleeves and into his boots.
We swung leads placing roughly 2 bits of pro per pitch then moved together to the summit.

We deployed the rope for the drop into Coire na Tulloch as its chocked full of old snow and quite steep (and will be for a while yet).
 
Craig found dry weather over in the East with his DofE group (I don’t really believe this).

CLOGS on...

11 May 2014

Needing to give my legs and lungs a bit of blast so I headed off up the Zig Zags, East ridge of Stob Corrie nan Lochan, Bidean, Screamach and along the Ben Fada ridge before dropping back into the Lost Valley; all in 6hrs with plenty time spent giving some "local knowledge" to 2 Dutch guys...

There is a steep headwall at the col of the lost valley so an axe and care is needed. A great day and one of my favourite outings. 

Do you think 60's will reach the bottom ?

19 May 2014

Craig and I took advantage of the great forecast and headed early morning to the Rannoch Wall.

Crossing easy gully was scary with hard icy snow but once across and on route we had great sunny and warm weather.

On Agag's, Craig lead the first 2 pitches and I lead the last 2. The rock was in great condition after the winter.

We abseiled down January Jigsaw to the big block belay on Agag's to climb the last 2 pitches. The plan was to climb all pitches but there were 2 teams already on pitch 1 and 2.

The climbing was fantastic on good grippy rock with holds where you needed them. I think we have climbed every possible option on the last pitch over the years, some slightly harder than others, but all great.

The temptation is to run the last two pitches together but that would be selfish...

We abseiled again to see how far the 60m ropes would take us down the wall… all the way bar 2 meters is the answer, be careful.

Another great day in the Coe.

More on the Simply Epic blog here

Sometimes …

You just got to go and see for yourself. We went, we saw, we came back. The Ben looked like it was over despite the volume of snow.

The trip was good however, as was the night in the 'Hotel Discovery'.

More on the Epic blog here.

Tower Ridge

Nice moves...

22 March 2014

With a half decent forecast we walked into Sneachda for a look. The wind was blowing hard but it was pleasant enough and gave us great views. Spotting old grey neve with pockets of "fresh" was easy enough so we quickly decided to head up to Patey's Original Route, IV 5.

The boys tried to shelter from the wind as I climbed the first pitch. This was really good with lots of nice hooks for the axes under fresh snow and with just the right amount of gear placements to make it all go quickly and without any drama. I might have run the first 2 pitched together…

Craig's turn had him disappear round the corner and heading for the ledge and corner crack for some exciting moves. Again, with good axe and gear placements, he made quick work of this pitch with a big grin on his face.

We abseiled from here into Aladdin's Couloir. A great day with good sociable belays climbing as a rope of 3.

Another day on the zigzags...

15 March 2014

Warm, wet, windy, zero visibility, the sound of thunder as cornices collapse in the doom.

Another day in the Coe.

Gerry on a snow bridge in SCNL

Just hanging …

Most mates just hang with a beer and some random chat. Not us - mid week 'Y' hang rescue in the dark...just to make it EVEN MORE exciting!
 

 

Making holes for Craig…

I headed up the zig zags of Gearr Aonach in heavy rain on Sunday then made holes on the East ridge of Stob Corrie nan Lochan. The underfoot conditions improved at 850m with good icy neve on scoured slopes to the summit.

I heard a big slide go off in the Lochan on an Easterly aspect but it could have come out of NC Gully. It sounded like thunder...

There is masses of surface and full depth debris everywhere. 

Looking into the Lost Valley

Gearr Aonach ridge

Looking into SCNL

The honeymoon suite...

Craig and I headed to the Northern Cairngorms on Friday night for an early start on the Mess. We were not the only ones and the early morning stampeded had us rethink the plan and head to Lurchers crag instead.

Having never climbed at this crag before we kicked up to K9 for a look see. The thaw had taken its toll on the lower slabs with water running under very thin ice. The first ice pitch looked good but getting to it looked dubious.

We retreated and soloed up North Gully (III).  Low down the snow was soft but it soon firmed up as we gained height. Chatting briefly with another party we climbed through and roped up for the ice pitch. This was short but nice and took screws. Once over we soloed again on bomber neve to the summit.

All in a great day with fantastic views

Chalamain Gap

Tags still on ?

9/2/2014

Finding something to climb at the moment is difficult, just getting out is difficult, as most hills are plastered with deep unconsolidated snow, rising temperatures and high avalanche warnings. Even the slopes above the walk into SCNL look like they could 'go'.

Craig had never climbed the School House arete (Ballachuilish) of Sgurr Bhan. This is a great ridge giving access to Sgorr Dhearg and Sgorr Dhonuil or for a quick hit to the summit 947m and back down the North ridge making for the classic horse-shoe traverse. This was a good plan and although we didn't get a view from the summit the views on route over Glen Coe and The Mamores were brilliant.

More on the Simply Epic blog here.

Twisted, well done…

With spookie snow conditions in SCNL Craig and I made careful but swift movements to get us to the belay on Raeburn's Route (IV 4 **). This is our default route for when things look thin or conditions are marginal. Today the first pitch was in great condition, the second pitch was buried making for awkward movement. I backed off (down climbed) the 3rd pitch as it was buried with soft snow. We bailed from the second belay in two abseils but with the 60m ropes we reckon we could have gone the whole way.

A great day despite the bail and poor climbing conditions. It's going to take a monster thaw and refreeze before climbing is both safe and nice.

Fingers crossed.