Friday, 20 March 2015

Bergschrund on the Buachaille...

15 March 2015

An early rise saw Gerry and I meet Murray for a day on the Ben...

Like waving at the tree, stopping to look at the Buachaille has become a part of what we all do, so pulling into Jacksonville it was clear that Crowberry Gully would be in good nick. Plan changed - we walked the walk we have all done 1000 times.

The neve was in great nick so we front pointed from just above the water slab to pitch 3 ? of Crowberry Gully. The 2 ice pitches were in good fat condition and easy for the grade with first time placements all the way. The route is very atmospheric and an amazing situation to be in.

We topped out in brilliant, sunny Alpine like conditions and made our way to a deserted summit to drink in the views.

The pics say it all... and a wee movie from Murray here


Wednesday, 11 March 2015

Never hurry a Murray…

8 March 2015

I teamed up with Murray and headed to the Coe. The mild temperatures have wreaked havoc with black rock everywhere.

We headed up curved ridge on damp slippy rock till we hit the snow line. There is lots of snow in all the gully lines but a good freeze is needed ASAP.

The wind ripped our faces on the way off the summit. Murray had never been down the West ridge Coire na Tulloch so we headed down that instead
as the headwall looked very steep indeed with monster horizontal cracks
Impressive crevasses at the foot of the Coire.