Friday, 28 March 2014

Nice moves...

22 March 2014

With a half decent forecast we walked into Sneachda for a look. The wind was blowing hard but it was pleasant enough and gave us great views. Spotting old grey neve with pockets of "fresh" was easy enough so we quickly decided to head up to Patey's Original Route, IV 5.

The boys tried to shelter from the wind as I climbed the first pitch. This was really good with lots of nice hooks for the axes under fresh snow and with just the right amount of gear placements to make it all go quickly and without any drama. I might have run the first 2 pitched together…

Craig's turn had him disappear round the corner and heading for the ledge and corner crack for some exciting moves. Again, with good axe and gear placements, he made quick work of this pitch with a big grin on his face.

We abseiled from here into Aladdin's Couloir. A great day with good sociable belays climbing as a rope of 3.

Wednesday, 19 March 2014

Another day on the zigzags...

15 March 2014

Warm, wet, windy, zero visibility, the sound of thunder as cornices collapse in the doom.

Another day in the Coe.

Gerry on a snow bridge in SCNL

Wednesday, 12 March 2014

Just hanging …

Most mates just hang with a beer and some random chat. Not us - mid week 'Y' hang rescue in the dark...just to make it EVEN MORE exciting!



Making holes for Craig…

I headed up the zig zags of Gearr Aonach in heavy rain on Sunday then made holes on the East ridge of Stob Corrie nan Lochan. The underfoot conditions improved at 850m with good icy neve on scoured slopes to the summit.

I heard a big slide go off in the Lochan on an Easterly aspect but it could have come out of NC Gully. It sounded like thunder...

There is masses of surface and full depth debris everywhere. 

Looking into the Lost Valley
Gearr Aonach ridge
Looking into SCNL

Wednesday, 5 March 2014

The honeymoon suite...

Craig and I headed to the Northern Cairngorms on Friday night for an early start on the Mess. We were not the only ones and the early morning stampeded had us rethink the plan and head to Lurchers crag instead.

Having never climbed at this crag before we kicked up to K9 for a look see. The thaw had taken its toll on the lower slabs with water running under very thin ice. The first ice pitch looked good but getting to it looked dubious.

We retreated and soloed up North Gully (III).  Low down the snow was soft but it soon firmed up as we gained height. Chatting briefly with another party we climbed through and roped up for the ice pitch. This was short but nice and took screws. Once over we soloed again on bomber neve to the summit.

All in a great day with fantastic views

Chalamain Gap