tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-79490889147141427782024-03-20T03:12:21.344-07:00Vertical ObsessionVertical Obsession |
The Climbing & Mountaineering Blog of Mark McGinnesVertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comBlogger165125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-60007755409612029802019-01-08T07:26:00.000-08:002019-01-08T07:31:32.776-08:00A stitch in time...<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">The Seam 1V 5</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">Some pics on the 22 December of Mark and Craig climbing
The Seam.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">We have been trying to get on this for years but conditions and
parties in front finally gave way on a marginal day (for the 3hr each way
drive) that gave great climbing on both pitches. Dan came along so the belays
were a sociable chat fest!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">A really great route well worth the wait and
worthy of a repeat if winter returns…</span><br />
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-75277302527850095662019-01-08T07:19:00.001-08:002019-01-08T07:31:26.759-08:00 Mr Blue Sky...<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">The Simply Epic Adventure summer <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">A</span>lps trip was a while ago, but
I thought I would write up a paragraph or two more as an <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">Aide-aide memoire </span>to Craig and
myself for future trips.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">Deciding to drive we hired a T6, great,
3hrs each at the wheel and we would be there in no time! All we could manage
was 2 hrs each and even at that, I thought it
was hard work. Having driven to <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">the
Alps </span>before this was a surprise, but then it was in a fast-sporty car
and not a van.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">We rolled into the cable station<span style="color: red;"> </span><span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">i</span>n
Saas Grund after 20 odd hrs of driving, tired and weary but with incoming rain
forecast we packed light and headed up to climb Alpindurst. This is a great
route that I had climbed before with G and knew Craig would love it. The
climbing is never difficult but the length, exposure and surrounding 4000m
peaks makes for an unforgettable experience.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">We climbed fast but after 10 <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">pitches</span> knew that we would
miss the last bin down. The rain came in true alpine style as we topped out so
we quickly packed and headed for the long walk back to the valley<span style="color: red;">. T</span>his took several hrs and our feet felt
shredded, but thankfully neither of us had blisters (note for the future, don’t
miss the last bin and thick socks work with trainers).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">We popped up the roof and slept like
dogs till the carpark opened (again) in the morning… </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">Craig being super keen went to charm
the lift staff with the plan we could use yesterday’s “down” tickets to go “up”
so we could bike down. He wore them down. But only to the middle station. The
middle station was without staff so we carried on up to Hohass leaving Craig
again to talk his version of Swiss German to allow us through the gates at the
top… he wore them down eventually and we sat on the edge of the <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">glacier</span><span style="color: red;">
</span>having a Cappuccino (2 shot Americano for me, obviously).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">Not having mountain <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">biked</span> for 2 years I felt uneasy
but there was only one way off the hill and that was down, so off we went,
Craig whooping and doing jumps, me howling and holding on. Once back at the van
I had to admit it was thrilling and I enjoyed every (other) <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">minute. </span>We loaded the van and
headed for Cham and an improving weather picture.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">We arrived to flooded drains and
gridlock so made our way to Gaillands to live van life for a week.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">The weather improved next morning so up
we went to suck some thin air, check conditions and climb Cosmic <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">A</span>rête. This is always good fun
and we had it to ourselves. I did the usual comedy act when climbing back onto
the viewing platform and got a bunch of kids to <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">haul</span><span style="color: red;"> </span>on the rope to
bring Craig up. We laughed and posed for pics with the kids and <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">a group of </span>Japanese<span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;"> people -</span><span style="color: red;"> </span>it was very funny.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;"> <span style="color: #1f497d;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">The weather for the next week was good
in the morning but thunder and rain in the afternoon so we climbed high in the
morning from the first bin and mountain biked in the afternoon using the
various uplifts in the valley.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">Having the van and bikes was great as
it gave us the flexibility to do something daily when it rains. The drive back
to the UK was as bad for me as the drive out. Craig managed better but we both
struggled with fatigue, drank too much coffee and ate things we would never eat
only to try and keep awake and alert (note, we would do it again).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">Some pics of the trip…</span></div>
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-56675620712060644682018-06-01T08:44:00.002-07:002018-06-01T08:44:29.774-07:00BDO...<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">19 May 2018</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">A couple of pics from the Inaccessible
Pinnacle, Sgùrr Dearg on the Cuillin a couple of weeks back. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have the high res version guys if you want
them (just laundered your email addresses).</span><br />
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Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-43366653826430864082018-06-01T08:43:00.002-07:002018-06-01T08:43:30.939-07:00Vitamin D on the Ben...<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Saturday 19 May
</span></span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">
Craig and I saw the sun and went for Observatory Ridge on Ben Nevis
as part of a hopeful plan for the Matterhorn this summer and a good
training ground for moving together on steeper ground. Neither has done
it before and it was fun 'route finding' on the steepest bits we could
find.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qbsUQaiRDXmtsUziBvXxlUIHQ9_rCyQhEamfgO4ak9AxTKo20q3I_cL__yVBqLz2hCI9J9c6eL6FUh0LaePditTDN99Hj9BZnd7NGbXgERZfoeX-OhoCm1C3kwYQCZSq7BaAh7byp-XJ/s1600/DSCN9061.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qbsUQaiRDXmtsUziBvXxlUIHQ9_rCyQhEamfgO4ak9AxTKo20q3I_cL__yVBqLz2hCI9J9c6eL6FUh0LaePditTDN99Hj9BZnd7NGbXgERZfoeX-OhoCm1C3kwYQCZSq7BaAh7byp-XJ/s400/DSCN9061.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It's a wonderful route and well worth a visit but there are some
interesting bits which would be more challenging in winter. That said,
it would need a proper alpine start in winter as its a long way with
proper route finding challenges no doubt - that's what happens when you
don't look at the guide book!</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KNDFEl1TqHUL1HYqdbzJCBW7NyN4_InYaJIgTKFtY6lXsBuRvvsQ4_IEuoEwqvgYHTXvbDXzZWXY5DBBYAo0T7sug1O0i-nthuV72nIStgb0QjohQGF6ciUCw85hTXwsvNqvwRp4jmeY/s1600/DSCN9065.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KNDFEl1TqHUL1HYqdbzJCBW7NyN4_InYaJIgTKFtY6lXsBuRvvsQ4_IEuoEwqvgYHTXvbDXzZWXY5DBBYAo0T7sug1O0i-nthuV72nIStgb0QjohQGF6ciUCw85hTXwsvNqvwRp4jmeY/s400/DSCN9065.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">It gives wonderful views over the Minus Face and Orion Face, with a
great view of Point Five too - plenty of water running in it!</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A very wet Point 5<br />
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">It's a route that just keeps giving and when you think it's about to
level out, another steep wall appears in front to go at. More
challenging than Tower Ridge but just as enjoyable with perhaps a more
claustrophobic feel, as TR is not walled in the way OR seems.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">
Anyway, we enjoyed it immensely and will go back soon to the Ben for training and fun.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tower Ridge in all its glory</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAFvjy2Z6JTtTMj4Opm-T4LeNADBrz0wMdwEmG2_p1vBBkWKdwsgExniD9Kwp_0vFg3w0v0NLtkxNI4kTozPfBZbGi2sDN1nW9SBIozVsToColBa6V8uIipcaP550d9Rqfig-RenwjIK0v/s1600/DSCN9083.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAFvjy2Z6JTtTMj4Opm-T4LeNADBrz0wMdwEmG2_p1vBBkWKdwsgExniD9Kwp_0vFg3w0v0NLtkxNI4kTozPfBZbGi2sDN1nW9SBIozVsToColBa6V8uIipcaP550d9Rqfig-RenwjIK0v/s400/DSCN9083.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wintery exit slope :)</td></tr>
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Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-53719565180010315152018-03-05T08:32:00.001-08:002018-03-05T08:32:22.172-08:00Mano Destra Italiana...
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">3 March 2018 </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Good couple of weeks climbing with
Craig.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Raeburn’s Ordinary Route Hand </span></b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">(IV 4) is far from ordinary and is a favourite of ours, we
went left from the second belay to make the route even better.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Curved Ridge</span></b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> (III 3) was in good but powder snow cover.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Shelf Route</span></b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> (IV 6) (bailed) due to the amount of snow and lack of good
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<b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Chockstone Gully</span></b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> (II) suited the high winds and avalanche forecast being low
down on the Cobbler.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Original Summer</span></b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> (IV 6) in the Cairngorms, Dan came along to make it a
rather sociable day out.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">McLay’s Crack</span></b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> (III 4) on the Cobbler got another visit on a better than
forecast day that happened to be my Birthday so Craig carried the rack in and
out!</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Crowberry Gully </span></b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">(IV 4)<b> </b>in fat easy conditions with views to America
from the top.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Italian Right Hand</span></b><span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> (IV 4) great but short route on a very windy day.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYaf2XJCDkAksUXIzbofureulQSbiTtGYcSQ2DKEx8wem1OPNH2ACM2v7_qi-uymUfxn7E2Lpb2rdBZabxR6Wu-PIBXPkZtwhRL29Q8h4HLbhtvOJkuGCydnKO3flBWfJK-19ZHq8_T8c/s1600/MMCG_ORC.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYaf2XJCDkAksUXIzbofureulQSbiTtGYcSQ2DKEx8wem1OPNH2ACM2v7_qi-uymUfxn7E2Lpb2rdBZabxR6Wu-PIBXPkZtwhRL29Q8h4HLbhtvOJkuGCydnKO3flBWfJK-19ZHq8_T8c/s400/MMCG_ORC.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original Summer Route</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS2GCr1xoSgwGT1S8DlNwECpPPg7gRf57wiE-S5vKfOKunvLkHm5bjAivrJEhUP8BFma8D9cWHhj-g3qmiX-rEsz9aXy-QqSuzCIcjj5I8ajr7OxQfS41JBsA0AlYoCdJd9OwiYGsk9oA/s1600/IMG_1357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS2GCr1xoSgwGT1S8DlNwECpPPg7gRf57wiE-S5vKfOKunvLkHm5bjAivrJEhUP8BFma8D9cWHhj-g3qmiX-rEsz9aXy-QqSuzCIcjj5I8ajr7OxQfS41JBsA0AlYoCdJd9OwiYGsk9oA/s400/IMG_1357.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Italian Right Hand<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-37424740092857543632017-09-06T01:49:00.000-07:002017-09-06T02:11:56.354-07:00The DEVIL is in the detail...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Saturday 2 September </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">With time running out to <a href="http://www.vertical-obsession.co.uk/2016/09/jugs.html" target="_blank">Linda’s</a> next birthday I was under pressure to magic some fine weather for a day out on Tower Ridge. With the help of some contacts it was agreed that the sun would shine on Saturday. So at 4:30am we left Glasgow and drove in the dark to Fort William.<br /><br />Mist and low cloud greeted us as we walked into the CIC with Linda questioning if the</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.douglashistory.co.uk/history/william_douglas.html#.Wa-2EIqQxR5" target="_blank">Douglas boulder</a> was actually a boulder! Eh, no, I guess not, but then I have never really given it any thought!<br /><br />We played leap frog with the boys from Newcastle and headed on up into the mist meeting</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.chauvinguides.com/" target="_blank">Marc Chauvin</a> and wife at the little tower.<br /><br />Linda was trusting her feet and climbing well so fast progress was made to the Eastern traverse and the fallen block chimney. Next up, walk the plank and get lowered into the gap. All done without hesitation or deviation. Summit sarnies and news that the Ben Nevis race was about to start made us decide to take in the CMD arête just as the sun burnt through, giving us fantastic views of the North Face.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A <a href="http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk/" target="_blank">Simply Epic</a> day leaving <a href="http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk/2016/10/florence.html">Linda</a> looking forward to her next birthday... </span></span></span></span></div>
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-46541137542277006772017-08-14T08:11:00.002-07:002017-08-18T06:22:39.105-07:00Tooth ache...<br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">August 17 </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">The alps this Summer was always
going to be tricky with less snow over the winter period than normal and then
very high early season temperatures…</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Craig and I arrived in Chamonix
knowing that the Frendo was not in condition. So, after a day at the crag we
headed up the Midi for a look at the Midi Plan Traverse…we got as far as the
col and turned back as there was a lack of good snow cover to make the climb
possible or enjoyable. On return to the Midi we opted for the Cosmic Arête,
this was on rock all the way and was quiet so we made good time despite coming
from sea level the day before.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">The next day we headed to the
Torino hut to put ourselves into a good position for the </span><span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;"><span>Dent du Géant and make use of the </span>only good stable day
forecast for that week.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">We headed out in the afternoon to scope the route and
see how many slots we would be negotiating next morning. After a night of no
sleep and reminding ourselves that alpine huts are not for sleeping in (they
are for spending the night in!) we were up and out the door at 4:30am. The
glacier had firmed up nicely and we made good time to the rock band after point
3537. We tiptoed over the loose rock for an hr to get to the Salle a Manger to
find others already on the route.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Surprised to find all other parties
were sporting full racks and rock shoes, we on the other hand had 4 slings, 4
draws and big boots. The first pitch had some fixed cord to pull on but the
climbing went at 4 so we carried on keeping the pitches quite short till we got
to the Burgener slabs. The route was busy but we held our own and arrived at
the summit by pulling on the odd ankle and standing on Italian and French
guides heads (or Heids as we sometimes say here in Scotland).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">We made the normal abseil down the
short side easily with 3 x 60m raps but not before the Italian guide managed to
cluster f**k our ropes (this is a true European skill). This
meant 4 of us had to hang, unite and sort the tangled mess (Craig is
quite skilled at this).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Heading down to the glacier the air
was full of the sound of falling rocks so it was no great surprise when
stepping across the bergschrund that half the hill (mountain) fell across our
path…Running at altitude tied to a rope should be in the Olympics!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Safely back in Cham we set about
replacing the 3,000 odd calories burnt by eating double Pizza and rehydrating
with <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">grande biere.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">The next day as per the forecast
the rain thundered down, but we were happy siting about eating more pizza and
drinking copious cappuccinos (lots of<span style="color: red;"> </span><span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">biere).</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">With a deteriorating weather
forecast our planned move to Switzerland for a go at the Matterhorn didn’t
happen so we set about reading guide books for easy long routes at lower
altitude to do in the rain. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">All in we had a great trip even if
it was cut short by the storms…</span><br />
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Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-75862773365884459922016-11-24T04:08:00.002-08:002016-11-24T04:08:17.092-08:0060m feels like miles…
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<span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">20 November 2016</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"></span><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"></span><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">We climbed The North Buttress of Buachaille Etive Mor. Conditions
look better than they are so the climbing was mainly on hooks. We abseiled
after the main difficulties as the volume of snow higher made going to the summit
difficult.</span>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">An amazing day with fantastic views across to the Mamores
and the Ben</span></div>
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Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-39792776036548159322016-10-25T06:36:00.000-07:002016-10-25T06:36:12.262-07:00Florence...23 October 2016<br />
<br />A call off on Saturday gave Linda the opportunity
to call in her <a href="http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk/" target="_blank">Simply Epic Adventure birthday gift voucher </a>with me on
Sunday. <br /><br />The weather was set to be fair with sun mid-morning, but the wind was cold when we made our way up Am Bodach.<br /><br />Linda
having a low centre of gravity has good sense of balance and made the
initial down climb look easy. We both enjoyed the mountaineering style
journey to Meall Dearg - the official start of the Aonach Eagach ridge.
Consistent exposure and beautiful views with varied scrambling; taking
in everything from terraced ridges and knife-edged arêtes to towering
chimneys . We made our way across the crazy pinnacles before the final
pull up to to Stob Coire Leith.<br /><br />We descended from the summit to the Clachaig road junction and thumbed a lift back to the start point.<br />
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Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-63332226109524511032016-10-10T02:30:00.002-07:002016-10-10T02:30:52.597-07:00Pterodactyl Attack...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
9 October 2016</div>
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After
long hard summer of work, injuries and disappointments, Craig and I got out onto the Cobbler today with a psyche to climb in the sun.<br />
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Craig sums up the day, here and on the Simply Epic website <a href="http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk/" target="_blank">here </a><br />
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We climbed Incubator six years ago and decided it needed a revisit. It's a meaty HS 4b with three
lovely pitches offering their own challenges along the way. Craig
headed off up the first pitch, a pleasant introduction to the joys of
mica schist in the dry...grippy but hollow rock in places. <br />
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The
next pitch is short with a sting on leaving the stance; an off-balance
overhung sloppy hold type move with little confidence but well
protected. Despatched with aplomb, Mark brought Craig up to the crux
balance-centric, bridging fest with a weird phallus rock protrusion half
way up. <br />
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Craig won the rock paper scissors duel and
headed off up the steep crack corner, lacing it up like a wild Western
bar girl trying to look thin. Half way up, the crack line terminates
and it seemed churlish, if not irresponsible, not to make use of the
phallus rock for safety, despite the sense of inadequacy it
engendered...<br />
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The pitch kept on giving and involved
some balance moves to escape the line right into a notch/haven and first
available stance. Mark followed up with style and led off up the final
short rock moves which we didn't really recall from 6 years ago. The
guide book may reveal the proper finish if we got it wrong but it all
seemed logical, unlike the heat from the October sun!<br />
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An
old egg sandwich for Mark and smoked salmon for Craig saw them back to
the car in the sun in jig time for coffee and cake in Arrochar. A grand
day in the hills for the boys, knocking off their THIRD!!! rock climb
of the season - where has the time gone?<br />
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Crikey, roll on the winter season...<br />
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Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-10433208573146823922016-09-23T04:04:00.000-07:002016-09-23T04:04:17.504-07:00The borrowers...18 September 2016<br />
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Kevin and Jane were keen to add another Munro to their tally.<br />
The weather was in-coming so we decided upon Ben More as it’s near and we could go direct to the summit in a bid to get a view.<br />
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Sadly this never happened but it was great fun never-the-less and we met some enthusiastic people on the summit to take our pic.<br />
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Funny
things happen when you ascend hills you have been on before - you
remember the people, the friends, the conversations, events and stories
told… Ben More is on of those hills and my head was full them on Sunday.<br />
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-43307686630673147782016-09-05T02:55:00.001-07:002016-09-05T02:55:04.991-07:00Jugs...4 September 2016<br />
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First time on rock for Linda climbing the uber classic Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor Glen Coe with me on Sunday. The rock was a bit greasy in places but it was very atsmospheric and Linda threw all the right shapes when needed.<br />
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We had lunch on Crowbery Tower before heading to the summit.<br />
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<br /><br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-54202098532696651342016-09-05T02:40:00.002-07:002016-09-05T02:40:21.411-07:00NB 205 225Some images from a great week in South West Lewis and Harris... <br />
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Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-881132671113857912016-04-19T08:38:00.001-07:002016-04-19T08:38:11.087-07:00Point made...17th April 2016<br />
<br />Point 5 Gully<br />
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<br />Craig and I headed to the Ben for what looked like good conditions but with incoming weather. <br /><br />The weather came in just as we started climbing and with lots of new snow blowing about we got the full weight of the natural releases coming down point 5 gully.<br /><br />This made for interesting climbing and a cool head was needed. Fortunately the ice was good for axe placements so we motored on till the end of the main difficulties before abseiling off into the mist and tricky pockets of slab…<br />
<br />A full edit of the day here on the <a href="http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk/" target="_blank">Simply Epic blog</a>.<br />
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<br /><br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-34526048054061738672016-03-23T08:44:00.000-07:002016-03-23T08:44:11.903-07:00McFlurry…Craig and I headed to the Ben to climb some ice although we knew this was unlikely as the thaw we witnessed on Sat had continued.<br /><br />The Ice was still fat, but with natural release coming down most routes, we thought better of it and climbed onto Tower Ridge via Faulty Towers.<br /><br />The ridge was in good condition so we soloed till the pitch before the Eastern traverse. We chatted to <a href="http://www.abacusmountainguides.com/blog" target="_blank">Mike</a> and client at the gap and before we knew it we were on the top with shades on in 16º heat.<br />
<br />We headed down number 4 and back to the North Face car park in super quick time.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Craig at the gap</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-29540127929226940252016-03-07T07:09:00.000-08:002016-03-07T07:17:09.751-08:00French bindings… 6 March 2016<br />
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Jane and I headed to Bridge of Orchy for some winter mountaineering in the sun. I had almost forgot what a pleasure it was to walk in the sunshine rather than shiver on a belay.<br />
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Today the early morning weather was excellent with good underfoot conditions and little wind.<br />
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Teams bailing off a fat looking Fahrenheit complaining of cruddy ice.<br />
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I was able to helps some youths with their antique crampons needing some unorthodox lacing to keep them attached to rather bendy boots...<br />
<span id="goog_2145586304"></span><span id="goog_2145586305"></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading to Beinn Dorain</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raised footprints</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit team</td></tr>
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-20142697431542082242016-03-01T02:26:00.000-08:002016-03-01T02:26:10.585-08:00Don’t drink that coffee …<div style="text-align: justify;">
Craig and I headed to the Coe with the plan of climbing Scabbard Chimney (V,6). We both have eyed this route for ages and today looked like the day. The first slab looked easily doable but was covered</div>
in unless thin crud, we both had a go but it just didn’t feel right…<br /><br />Next up, Ordinary Route Summit Buttress (IV,5) – This turned out to be good and interesting climbing. A full account can be found here on the <a href="http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk/" target="_blank">Simple Epic blog</a><br />
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<br /><br /><br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-19582041130046281372016-02-16T01:51:00.003-08:002016-02-16T01:51:59.276-08:00Sending more than a card…14th February 2016<br /><br />Shelf Route IV,6<br />
<br />Knowing the start of this route means you have to commit to the lower reaches of Crowberry Gully, Craig and I opted to atack the ridge head on. This made for 2 interesting pitches before we got onto the route proper.<br />
<br />Craig with some good beta sent me ahead with the instructions to climb the centre of three chimneys, me having never been able to follow instructions, headed up the left hand one instead. This made for good sustained bridging with good hooks but unhelpful snow. The difficulties not being over till I swam up the deep unconsolidated powder to the belay, this was dug and backed up as the stance was steep.<br />
<br />Craig followed and climbed on till he found a suitable spike for us to bail from. It took us 4 abseils to get us off the route clear of Crowberry Gully.<br />
<br />An exiting day with good decisions made getting on and off our route.<br />
<br />More here on the <a href="http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk/" target="_blank">Simply Epic Adventures website blog</a>.<br />
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-65371689474542018112016-02-12T08:09:00.002-08:002016-02-12T08:11:28.408-08:00Wild at heart…Sunday 7th February<br />
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Craig and I had Liam and Robbie on the hill on Sunday for a bit of skills and a look at safe travel.<br />
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The avalanche hazard was considerable so there was a lot of learning done and the boys seemed happy with the bombardment of information discussed off the hill and how it was all deployed on the hill on a truly wild day...<br />
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The snow was unhelpful on the Zig Zags but this weeks colder temperatures should help firm up the snow pack for some good climbing.<br />
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More here on the <a href="http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk/" target="_blank">Simply Epic Adventures website</a><br />
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-75957383083918098432016-01-12T07:23:00.000-08:002016-01-13T02:27:22.375-08:00Winter update...<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Traffic as our route joined Twisting Gully pitch 3</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 8.1 felt good but a bit stiff to handle</td></tr>
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Not really had the chance to update the blog recently leaving Craig to tell most of the tales on the <a href="http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk/" target="_blank">Simply Epic blog</a>.<br />
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Winter thus far has been slow to start, we have snow, but far from ideal climbing conditions…<br />
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1. Corie an Lochan – black, bailed.<br />
2. Raeburns Route STNL in lots of powder before Christmas, abseiled the route as it was windy on top.<br />
3. NB on the Buachaille – bailed after pitch 1 due to constant avalanche of graupel.<br />
4. No 5 gully on the Ben, we went for a walk to look see what was in. Not much but No5 gully gave an interesting amble through some super rock architecture that we wouldn’t normally go near.<br />
5. Twisting Groves (a variation) - climbed 2 pitches to the chalkstone of twisting then got caught up in traffic so bailed on Craigs new 8.1, 60m “strings".<br />
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Fully stories here on the <a href="http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk/" target="_blank">Simply Epic blog…</a><br />
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Thanks to Craig for the pics on Sunday.<br />
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-51339700372732656522015-10-12T07:58:00.001-07:002015-10-14T08:46:59.943-07:00Going for Gold…<div style="text-align: justify;">
12 October 2015<br />
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Craigs final Gold DofE of the year got cancelled last minute so he joined me on the uber classic Curved Ridge with Jane. <br />
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I had Jane on a short rope and Craig soloed alongside offering her support where needed. This was working well until we heard a cry for help coming from D Gully Buttress. A solo climber had got separated from his party and started climbing, but soon got crag fast. Craig and I headed down the ridge till I could drop a loop of rope to him and escort him to Curved Ridge were his group were now assembled. The whole operation took less than 25 mins - so no major drama!<br />
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The sun was out by then so we added the traverse to Crowberry ridge and up to the best picnic spot in the Glen; Crowberry Tower for Coffee and cake. <br />
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More on the <a href="http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk/" target="_blank">Simply Epic</a> blog...</div>
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-46868946555595491932015-10-02T07:17:00.003-07:002015-10-05T03:16:43.884-07:00Lip balm…<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Arderikie Wall**** HS 4b<br /><br />Gerry and I took advantage of the good forecast and headed North to Binnein Shuas. We walked up the estate track with various overnight camping teams heading out in what can only be described as July weather.<br /><br />We tossed the wee blue lip balm tin to see who was first up and I win. Gerry had climbed the route many years before with George so it seemed only right. We followed <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Scottish-Rock-South-v-1/dp/190609506X" target="_blank">Gary’s </a>description and ran the original 12m first and second pitch together.<br /><br />The climbing and situation was fantastic if not a little run out on the top section, but the holds were good and with such good weather it was easy to just keep climbing. Gerry arrived at the belay looking relaxed and eager to tackle the impressive looking flake (I was slightly jealous of this to be honest). Pitch dispatched without drama and I led through on yet another great pitch on great rock with good gear. Being ‘now’ in the groove the final two pitches went by in a flash and left us feeling we wanted another 10 pitches !!!<br /><br />The route is amazing and impressive in equal measures and well worth getting up early for. It’s been on Craig’s list for a while also so perhaps I'll get to lead the flake pitch sometime soon.</span></span></span><br />
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Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-63268132978809931272015-09-03T08:54:00.000-07:002015-09-03T09:17:20.902-07:00Cheese...<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">21-29 August 2015 </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">I teamed up with Gerry for this years Alps fix.<br /><br />We both wanted to climb Alpin-durst (14 pitches 4c) on the Jagihorn. We both wanted to climb Castor and Pollux, the Eiger, the Matterhorn, Lyskamm, the Frendo; the list is endless… so, within 10 hours of leaving Edinburgh we were swinging leads on the grippy gneiss high above Sass Grund sucking in thin air on a bright sunny day and making plans for the coming week.<br /><br />The Swiss meteo was showing a 1.5 day blip with heavy weather up high so we relocated to the valley for some sport climbing and Ferrata at Belvedere then onto the Grand Hotel Kurhaus in the Arolla valley to pack for a couple nights at Klein Matterhorn. We arrived in Zermatt in good time and headed up to the Hut for stunning 360 views.<br /><br />First up each day we had the plateau and journey to our mountains in complete solitude. Castor and Pollux were in great conditions with firm and squeaky snow and on both occasions we had the summits to ourselves. <br /><br />High altitude sleeps over we headed to the valley to mainline on some oxygen and then some multi pitch climbing in the sun at Pierr du Moelle.<br /><br />Thanks to Gerry for the great photographs (I dropped my camera down Alpindurst) and for his encyclopaedic memory for mountain shapes and names...a great trip. </span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Alpin-Durst © Gerry McGarry</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> © Gerry McGarry</span></span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Jagihorn summit </span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ferrata Belvedere © Mark McGinnes</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT-0-2l1TObbOZdwEQpo5oZojd5rQbQQ9Yyc5zxkkRsIPP3KRSi24-uk6bN0geFENxV31pGDRbzMSneRcnsZkWs7l9Sflb_XSqpUOjfnoZplD4FA45MaLGddHzdYqoYPZeLmJrQEiHJ_0/s1600/KM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT-0-2l1TObbOZdwEQpo5oZojd5rQbQQ9Yyc5zxkkRsIPP3KRSi24-uk6bN0geFENxV31pGDRbzMSneRcnsZkWs7l9Sflb_XSqpUOjfnoZplD4FA45MaLGddHzdYqoYPZeLmJrQEiHJ_0/s400/KM.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Breithorn with Pollux and Castor behind </span></span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> © Mark McGinnes</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyh0iWM4tRuEoVEU9Pq6fJM2TjU4TddBa3ERrbWJmZT4I0wTJz2hgZWimzI5uJPULJ8adRUGErbla8Ztalum9__sMXwn3c7kRciDQpFfOQGgkxZJx-HMYcCEMAEyUkk_XWYgOgPbbnaI0/s1600/Butterfly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyh0iWM4tRuEoVEU9Pq6fJM2TjU4TddBa3ERrbWJmZT4I0wTJz2hgZWimzI5uJPULJ8adRUGErbla8Ztalum9__sMXwn3c7kRciDQpFfOQGgkxZJx-HMYcCEMAEyUkk_XWYgOgPbbnaI0/s400/Butterfly.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Tying alpine butterflies at 5am © Gerry McGarry</span></span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvM7d5tDhsM5si48h1mx1F5pHPaz166cz3pb5vTVqSoExSc24dbNybpGzqAV1BFnVkqrG6SlPeLA-m7fJDB00bADi1npF9LXyr2ciMb-1jSu5ARMmDNwn9-D9qKnpeyrasYderY_pwn8A/s1600/FixedRope_Polux.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvM7d5tDhsM5si48h1mx1F5pHPaz166cz3pb5vTVqSoExSc24dbNybpGzqAV1BFnVkqrG6SlPeLA-m7fJDB00bADi1npF9LXyr2ciMb-1jSu5ARMmDNwn9-D9qKnpeyrasYderY_pwn8A/s400/FixedRope_Polux.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Fixed ropes on Pollux © Gerry McGarry</span></span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRgjfAHj6cOJksGP65QZvpHyUycRTO-7_G0rP2cfGZMfm5OC-r4MFg_BygnCtAuqqY-t6PWSaw3Tv8rUMl8c7C5ZLBib1nrcDdiZjGBAvM35_zyJDuVv7wqzED6a92PL3hrbX9CNaq7Ck/s1600/GM_Summit_POLUX.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRgjfAHj6cOJksGP65QZvpHyUycRTO-7_G0rP2cfGZMfm5OC-r4MFg_BygnCtAuqqY-t6PWSaw3Tv8rUMl8c7C5ZLBib1nrcDdiZjGBAvM35_zyJDuVv7wqzED6a92PL3hrbX9CNaq7Ck/s400/GM_Summit_POLUX.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Gerry on the Pollux summit ridge </span></span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> © Mark McGinnes</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEify20-37L8RSaYIVAlLQIq4iL8ousqS6dSABoSHQDcIs4WIqcPwDWMWLbJNP-ykL1p1nm5G3W9cYYoNnAoMmCYVs4awayDloOOMG4djWoZ5NB4jTKIgFMmww3JfPFePPcwcNIPCEKaAW8/s1600/Castor_arete.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEify20-37L8RSaYIVAlLQIq4iL8ousqS6dSABoSHQDcIs4WIqcPwDWMWLbJNP-ykL1p1nm5G3W9cYYoNnAoMmCYVs4awayDloOOMG4djWoZ5NB4jTKIgFMmww3JfPFePPcwcNIPCEKaAW8/s400/Castor_arete.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Summit ridge Castor © Gerry McGarry</span></span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg14Q82TBvN3fvjDsBcT1SYNoipVyuyJnI2kecbxoZpIC3XmsCufxoSTWOUxRXcszOArAtwiItRpQpL5TyAAxv22cZixNILba1bBAd9oH9v92HZccYuaTVPvFYMxjOi-u4hTNEtrDAKUJM/s1600/GM_Castor_Ridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg14Q82TBvN3fvjDsBcT1SYNoipVyuyJnI2kecbxoZpIC3XmsCufxoSTWOUxRXcszOArAtwiItRpQpL5TyAAxv22cZixNILba1bBAd9oH9v92HZccYuaTVPvFYMxjOi-u4hTNEtrDAKUJM/s400/GM_Castor_Ridge.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Castor summit ridge </span></span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> © Mark McGinnes</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGah-6JYwKz-zAjDPnVTMcQ-IjzdKjlDtVGlWBBbFcxZunD6vDo4sE31e8VjwxMnl35rXUfRekHuQTyVdJ-80yNOM5eBlw2ZrQiOZjYWWtILTA2hTJtYHcrkma83S8bRjvEbVsF1G0z5k/s1600/POLUX_SELFI.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGah-6JYwKz-zAjDPnVTMcQ-IjzdKjlDtVGlWBBbFcxZunD6vDo4sE31e8VjwxMnl35rXUfRekHuQTyVdJ-80yNOM5eBlw2ZrQiOZjYWWtILTA2hTJtYHcrkma83S8bRjvEbVsF1G0z5k/s400/POLUX_SELFI.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Summit selfie </span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv4QKrQXIKtzX7X5fyKMTy2kKpvALvxMyGn3nGlLwHOeZr-TVkcBf9zda-TfWBd3BATxC_OVorrbJTQpnUs3ftYFXKbmQ3v9fOeWgvSwQoYknEqgn9Hfb0LXlbaLJyXFs7kCo8RUw4ZDY/s1600/LYSKAM.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv4QKrQXIKtzX7X5fyKMTy2kKpvALvxMyGn3nGlLwHOeZr-TVkcBf9zda-TfWBd3BATxC_OVorrbJTQpnUs3ftYFXKbmQ3v9fOeWgvSwQoYknEqgn9Hfb0LXlbaLJyXFs7kCo8RUw4ZDY/s400/LYSKAM.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Looking across to Lyskamm </span></span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> © Mark McGinnes</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeDy0H55INGBq81ExPJzvWOgsUjeueJG5QXBgWy9F-5F8LWuXg7IXTklcMVSShE7a5pPTp0ZKDz-eePiGgrt3q4bs85rS9rTeMFjLmpGbiOT8szB7iKUikvVZZq2FnZlizjwwCfFu8_Cg/s1600/Cat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeDy0H55INGBq81ExPJzvWOgsUjeueJG5QXBgWy9F-5F8LWuXg7IXTklcMVSShE7a5pPTp0ZKDz-eePiGgrt3q4bs85rS9rTeMFjLmpGbiOT8szB7iKUikvVZZq2FnZlizjwwCfFu8_Cg/s400/Cat.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Limestone multi-pitch climbing </span></span><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">© Mark McGinnes</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNclnQjSvJ-mHxVcNnZ47NwCKi6RnV5vGAwvDJ_EREy9EZFWjb8jmSV8F_ia9AK_Z8FK3EKukv5RtlJwnKLKAugBp1yQLocDCEoD1k6xxbnjMUf9l0LKChLU5ad5qqFghfyhkJYPh9WiQ/s1600/Cat_smile.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNclnQjSvJ-mHxVcNnZ47NwCKi6RnV5vGAwvDJ_EREy9EZFWjb8jmSV8F_ia9AK_Z8FK3EKukv5RtlJwnKLKAugBp1yQLocDCEoD1k6xxbnjMUf9l0LKChLU5ad5qqFghfyhkJYPh9WiQ/s400/Cat_smile.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> © Mark McGinnes</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Gerry continues his Alps trip this week with Carol...</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicdvtDyS0G4jQygoN6Psh-txkp0kMs_0bZGHIDlwqIKwtavjcT-b7ex_aCTX1PMxiWN22Z9jQQMmJVwDbRmF_l21XtjRoLkhu3Ma1EnF3jmgwnMEhImrulWsh-VHBR76sUY2y-kVyskkQ/s1600/Desalps.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicdvtDyS0G4jQygoN6Psh-txkp0kMs_0bZGHIDlwqIKwtavjcT-b7ex_aCTX1PMxiWN22Z9jQQMmJVwDbRmF_l21XtjRoLkhu3Ma1EnF3jmgwnMEhImrulWsh-VHBR76sUY2y-kVyskkQ/s400/Desalps.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> © Gerry McGarry</span></span> </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Mmmm, now where is this ?<br /> </span></span><br />
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-86998997926360214332015-07-04T03:46:00.000-07:002015-07-04T03:46:02.015-07:00The greatest mountain in human history !<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">1 July 2015</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Cah7JGJLkApqMOQNUQpcf6fDe9C4G5bWtPy5Obx9RC1Yy133DMUCBj2c3PnQvzKCjl1uKsrxbXSSWLm1920ezS6PtD6xQJ3PkwT0g8fWTeI1ighCcq7I8Moy4Vp0w1VS4Y-OcUg-RyI/s1600/Summit.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Cah7JGJLkApqMOQNUQpcf6fDe9C4G5bWtPy5Obx9RC1Yy133DMUCBj2c3PnQvzKCjl1uKsrxbXSSWLm1920ezS6PtD6xQJ3PkwT0g8fWTeI1ighCcq7I8Moy4Vp0w1VS4Y-OcUg-RyI/s400/Summit.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><br /><br />Great day guiding on Ben Nevis with all the guys making it to the summit via the Carn Mor Dearg Arête.<br /><br />This was particularly satisfying for both Craig and myself as they were all part of a 'Simply Epic Adventures 'organised trip - seven Canadians over here to celebrate their friendship of many years.<br /><br />Base camp was manned by the charismatic Colin who made sure the beers were on the bar at the end. <br /><br />The Tour de Ecosse continues this week with adventures on Knoydart and Applecross.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">More info soon here on the <a href="http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk/" target="_blank">Simply Epic Adventures</a> website or email <a href="mailto:craig@simplyepicadventures.co.uk" target="_blank">Craig</a> for ideas and availability for your own Simply Epic Adventure.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Some pics from the day...</span></span></div>
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Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7949088914714142778.post-52951930705364174262015-03-20T02:46:00.005-07:002015-03-20T10:07:12.231-07:00Bergschrund on the Buachaille...<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">15 March 2015</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Default Sans Serif,Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">An early rise saw Gerry and I meet Murray for a day on the Ben...</span><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br />Like
waving at the tree, stopping to look at the Buachaille has become a part of
what we all do, so pulling into Jacksonville it was clear that <a href="http://www.vertical-obsession.co.uk/2013/02/the-fabled.html">Crowberry Gully</a> would be in good nick. Plan changed - we walked the walk we have all
done 1000 times. <br /><br />The neve was in great nick so we front pointed
from just above the water slab to pitch 3 ? of Crowberry Gully. The 2
ice pitches were in good fat condition and easy for the grade with first
time placements all the way. The route is very atmospheric and an
amazing situation to be in.<br /><br />We topped out in brilliant, sunny Alpine like conditions and made our way to a deserted summit to drink in the views.<br /><br />The pics say it all... and a wee movie from Murray <a href="http://youtu.be/k5F7WNWATKQ">here</a></span></span><br />
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.com