With spookie snow conditions in SCNL Craig and I made careful but swift movements to get us to the belay on Raeburn's Route (IV 4 **). This is our default route for when things look thin or conditions are marginal. Today the first pitch was in great condition, the second pitch was buried making for awkward movement. I backed off (down climbed) the 3rd pitch as it was buried with soft snow. We bailed from the second belay in two abseils but with the 60m ropes we reckon we could have gone the whole way.
A great day despite the bail and poor climbing conditions. It's going to take a monster thaw and refreeze before climbing is both safe and nice.