The fabled ...

24 February 2013

Crowberry Gully is one of those routes that has loads of history and epics, Harold Raeburn, Murray and MacInnes and Co using "combined tactics" on the left hand variation. Its also a route that is seldom in condition due to its aspect and the fact it avalanches frequently, but with this long period of settled cold weather Craig and I knew it would be good-to-go.

Despite a super early drive from Glasgow we arrived at the base of the climb with 3 parties ahead.

We swung leads quickly catching the teams in front, but the weather was great and the situation fantastic so were quite happy to chill and chat.

The ramps between the steep ice sections were straightforward and the steep sections had brilliant chewy ice that sucked your ice pics making the climbing very enjoyable.

A very atmospheric route worthy of its stars, IV ***

A quick bite of lunch on the summit and some cheeky chat with Donald from Abacus before we headed down Coire Na Tulaich. 

More here on the Epic blog.

 

Exfoliating ...

We spent a few hours on Sunday in the white room on Ben Donich. It was full on winter with the 2 parties in front quickly feeling “out of our depth, ” and “this is crazy”.  It was, but we plodded on making holes in the new and crunching up the old snow, there was some slab about but it was easily avoided. We took shelter from the wind in one of the spooky fissures before heading back down the hill.
A quick but full on day with a free exfoliating and a blood shot eye, magic.

Out there...

North Buttress IV, 4

Craig and I Headed to Glen Coe to climb North Buttress of Stob Dearg (Buachaille Etive Mor). We know this route well and have climbed many times in summer and have had a couple of bailed attempts in winter.

We arrive ahead of another 3 teams of 2. The conditions looked good but the snow only had a crust, so was less than ideal. Still, being first on the route, we pushed on with me leading the first pitch. Craig led through to climb the second chimney and me the third. At times it was slow going to  find gear placements under the snow and finding bomber placements was just about non existent.

All of the 3 main pitches felt a grade harder today with some really insecure placements on all the crux moves.

Conditions improved with the altitude, and by the time the technical climbing was over we cruised together over super icy but still tricky "easier" ground on the ridge to the summit.

With the avalanche conditions high on East facing slopes and finding lots of slab we opted to come down "my dad's route" (the West Ridge) rather than Coire Na Tulaich, as it was loaded.

A fantastic day out with some good decision making on the descent, with energy levels low and in fading light...Epic.

Thoughts...

Sensible thoughts and observation from this weekends tragic events ...

http://crankitupgear.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/a-terrible-tragedy.html

Lifting the lid ...

20 January 2013

Bill and I had a short but exciting day climbing the South East Ridge (III) of the South Peak of the Cobbler taking the direct start.

It felt proper cold with a high wind-chill factor but the conditions for climbing were less than helpful. Turf that was exposed was frozen, but snow on the route was powder and there was no neve...

The abseil from the top in the cold wind was aided by having an in-situ sling and crab (not that I am tight but I got to keep my 3m of 6m cord for another week).

Craig was packing to go rock climbing Tuesday and Wednesday in the lakes !

 

The Seamstress...

15 December 2012

An early walk into Coire an-t Sneachda, Northern Cairngorms (on fresh snow) with the aim of climbing

The Seam 1V’5. We had scoped this out in our last visit and it looks a cracking line. The guidebook says it's sustained but with good gear.

Craig climbed the first pitch as for Invernookie,  but the new snow had insulated the turf, the gear placements were all buried and the neve was non existent. I arrived at the belay and the decision to bin The Seam and carry up Invernookie was taken as the sensible option.

With more snow this route had changed in character from when we last climbed it. Gear was still hard to find and the team behind us were thankful for all our digging.

We topped out into a fierce wind and made a fast and interesting descent by the notch on Fiaciall Buttress.

Great day and some more good ‘early season’ climbing...

More on the Simply Epic blog here.

Its still early doors ...

Craig and I continued our early winter campaign with an alpine plod to Stob Coire nan Lochan (SCNL) to have a “look see” at what was “in”.

There were teams already on Crest Route and a team heading for Twisting Groves. We headed for the uber classic and a favourite route of ours, Raeburn’s Ordinary Route on Central Buttress IV 4 ** This decision was to due to the lack of neve or frozen turf and the guide book reads, can be climbed in any condition ...

The first pitch was thin with unfrozen turf so I hooked my way up the chimney to the first belay. The rest of the route took some clearing to expose gear placements and with no neve or frozen turf felt quite tricky on all the usual crux moves.

We had a great climb regardless and the lack of bomber axe and crampon placements kept both of us on our toes... The book is right it can be climbed in any condition it just makes it harder !

The full story here on the Simply Epic website.

Eager...

18 November 2012

Craig and I met early and headed to Fort Bill with a plan to climb North East Buttress. 24hrs of snow made the Ben look wintery but it didn’t feel all that cold. As we passed a deserted CIC hut we decided that conditions were not really “in” so opted for Tower Ridge instead.

Getting to the bottom of the route involved some ”interesting” soloing up deeply snow covered un-bonded rock held in place with non-frozen turf.

Once on the ridge it was obvious that the snow had no base and conditions were tricky , but we pressed on till we were wading waist deep beneath the little tower. The wind got up, it started snowing, and both of us had that feeling you get before things go wrong. We bailed with a couple of abseils and picked our way back down to the hut.

We met Spike again (I think he is following me) who had climbed and boarded down no 4 gully-good effort.

Penguin, thanks ...

3 November 2012

Craig and I headed to the Cairngorms to have a look/see at the “just arrived” winter conditions. Surprised on route by the blizzard conditions on the A9 we kitted up and headed into Coire an t'Sneachda.

The wind, CLAG, freezing temperatures, SNOW and spin drift made it feel like proper winter. We geared up and headed for the direct start of Invernookie (Scottish III,4). SMC guide reads, an interesting and popular climb which takes a line of ramps on the wall above and right of Fiacaill Couloir. Loss of turf means there are some tricky moves (IV,5 under powder).

Thin conditions made this feel stiff for the grade with most of the hard moves requiring hooks and torques

and a bit of cunning. The climbing was harder than III,4 and both of us felt that if this was your first grade III you would have been in for a bit of a spanking.

The weather improved and we had a great start to our winter climbing campaign...

More here on the Simple Epic Blog 

Climber on the crux pitch of The Seam IV,5

Craig on the exit pitch

Winter MOJO returned ...

Balls out ...

21 October 2012

The team split for Sunday with Bill and Craig heading to the Witches Trails in Fort William for biking with John (Fish), and me heading into the North face of Ben Nevis.

I was at the CIC hut in 1hr 20min and caught up with Spike and clients with the same objective, Tower Ridge. There was reported snow on the summit, but it was misty, so neither of us knew if this was superficial or not. After exchanging some pleasantries and swapping what beta we had I was quickly on my way and climbing rock. Looking down into Observatory gully I could see what was left of last winter's snow and what new snow was around, it all looked quite white.

Just before the Eastern traverse I hit the snow line; the snow was easily cleared but extra care was needed. The ridge leading to tower gap looked very wintery indeed. I was glad to find the (usual) in-situ sling to clip as I swung round and down before stepping across the gap to climb out of the other side. The snow on the final section was deep and quite tricky, but firm enough for me to kick steps up the exit gully.


I dropped down to Glen Nevis to be picked up by the boys who had a great day on the trails. More info on what they did here at www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk

The Douglas Boulder and The Great Tower in the mist

The Very narrow ridge leading to Tower Gap

Looking back towards the Gap from the other side

Heading to the Pony Track the sky clears

Looking towards the Carn Derg

Beat the clock...

Craig and Bill biked the devils to Kinlochleven then round to the upper Glen Coe cark park while I did the round of the zig zags on Gearr Aonach-SCNL-Bidean nam Bian before dropping into the lost valley and back to the car park in 4 hrs.

All in a good day, cold and windy in the morning above 600m but sunny and clear in the afternoon.

More here on the Simple Epic Blog.

Looking into the Lost valley

Craig and Bill heading to the upper car park

 

Name and shame...

A quick blast on my local hills on Saturday to stretch the legs. The Hills were busy; not surprising with this being the only dry and sunny weekend for a while. We chose different lines up the Cobbler, Narnain and Ime than anyone else, but still found some friendly banter, stories, and even managed to bum some cake on the way.

Not best pleased with the state of the hill after the recent upgrade works to the feeder dam coming off the back of the cobbler...

 

 

Dancing on the ridge ...

With more standing water on the A82 than I can ever remember it was obvious that our planned climb was out. Instead our CPD logbook kicked in with a quick traverse of the Aonach Eagach. This involved security on steep ground and some micro navigation.

The rain and wind abated but the rock was very slippery. We crabbed, down climbed and carefully picked our way across the ridge till the last munro Sgorr nam Fiannaidh where we headed straight off the hill to the Clachaig Inn junction . This is the best spot to thumb a lift back to the upper car park. It is only locals, other climbers or hill walkers that ever stop, as all the tourists must think you want to go all the way to Engerland with them. Thanks again to Moira for the lift.