Craig
and I continued our early winter campaign with an alpine plod to Stob
Coire nan Lochan (SCNL) to have a “look see” at what was “in”.
There were teams already on Crest Route and a team heading for Twisting Groves. We headed for the uber classic and a favourite route of ours, Raeburn’s Ordinary Route on Central Buttress IV 4 ** This decision was to due to the lack of neve or frozen turf and the guide book reads, can be climbed in any condition ...
The first pitch was thin with unfrozen turf so I hooked my way up the chimney to the first belay. The rest of the route took some clearing to expose gear placements and with no neve or frozen turf felt quite tricky on all the usual crux moves.
We had a great climb regardless and the lack of bomber axe and crampon placements kept both of us on our toes... The book is right it can be climbed in any condition it just makes it harder !
There were teams already on Crest Route and a team heading for Twisting Groves. We headed for the uber classic and a favourite route of ours, Raeburn’s Ordinary Route on Central Buttress IV 4 ** This decision was to due to the lack of neve or frozen turf and the guide book reads, can be climbed in any condition ...
The first pitch was thin with unfrozen turf so I hooked my way up the chimney to the first belay. The rest of the route took some clearing to expose gear placements and with no neve or frozen turf felt quite tricky on all the usual crux moves.
We had a great climb regardless and the lack of bomber axe and crampon placements kept both of us on our toes... The book is right it can be climbed in any condition it just makes it harder !
