Alps 2011

Here we come...

More, more, more !

1 July 2011

This blog is only about climbing ... But then we had a (Simply Epic CPD) boys weekend at Peter’s Chalet ! Wake boarding on the Friday, road bike on Saturday and climbing on Sunday. Fantastic weekend, fantastic location and fantastic hospitality from Peter.

I headed home and Craig and Bill headed to Torridon for a week of mountain biking ... More info and some great videos can be found on Craig's blog, http://outactive.blogspot.com

What, no baby bar !!!!

Peter showing off

The chain gang (from the left) Bill, Craig, Me and Peter

 

Rock Star...

28 June 2011
 

... No not Craig, Valerie ! She showed her old dad how to crank on the overhanging and super polished Pinkerton’s Corner (S) and Corner Arete (S) at Neilston Quarry.

 

Midweek mid summer madness and hot aches !

16th June 2011

June should be about long balmy nights on the cobbler climbing till midnight. Dan and I used to do this, Craig and I did this last year and in April this year, so with Mid summers night approaching and BLUE forecast for the weekend, we shot the crow early and walked up the short sharp Glen Crow side of the mountain. Craig using the opportunity to pace and time, 1h 6mins to the Bealach. As we geared up the CLAG came in and as Craig led off up the first pitch of Incubator I shivered on belay with hood up and gloves on. I led the second pitch with cold fingers and had the hot aches at the next belay. With sensible heads on we retreated shivering and cursing the Scottish summer. Bizarre that you get more routes done in the winter than summer! Back at the car in 46mins and home for midnight.

No day or night on the hill is bad though, just means we need to go back and do it all again...

Badger or 6 Fish

Sunday 12 June 2011

With the weather set to be fair the eager team meet at 5.30am and head to the Coe accompanied by top cat and trainee Navy pilot, Paul. The plan-warm up on the classic Agag’s groove, abseil down January Jigsaw, climb January and abseil back down. Lunch in the sun and head home happy. Result ! Love it when a plan comes together. Craig and I had been talking about doing this double Uber classic for a while. The abseil down Rannoch wall is a full 50m to the block belay of the first pitch of January then a further 25m to the base. It's not for everyone but saves time, is easy on your toes and it's exciting !

Kicking the habit...

Sunday 5th June 2011

Despite the rain and poor forecast we needed to get our hands on some rock. January Jigsaw was the plan and with an early start to beat the rain had us heading to the Rannoch Wall, but with Craig "micro - naving" in the CLAG (Cloud Level At Ground) and the not forecast rain we deployed plan B. Cold and wet scramble up curved ridge and abseiled back down (just to get the rope out). Not many people do this but it's great for honing your technique. We managed three full length abseils before heading to Jacksonville. Loads of early season alpines en route.

1 min per contour but how many contours...

Me, happy to be on some rock again

The way down

Common (carnivorous) Butterwort

21 days

They say it takes 21 days to start a habit. I love this philosophy but its been raining 21 days...actual.

The Long Climb 425m VS 4c ***

The guide book says this is the longest vertical face climb in mainland Britain, of almost alpine stature.

Friday 29th April 2011, up at 4am, meet Craig 5am, no faff, coffee and head into the night. Just over 2 hours later we roll into the north face car park, bags on and head up the track. 25 mins later and we are the top car park and heading to NEB. After negotiating the snow patch at the bottom of Orion face I led up the first slab taking the right hand variation (4c). The next pitch (4a) has a super cool airy traverse from the belay to gain two parallel cracks. These are climbed for 45m and offer really good exposed climbing. The ground eases and we are in the basin of Orion. The traverse is straightforward enough but still holds snow. Through leads and we arrive at the second slab. This is a great pitch (4c) up the slab and traverse onto the left edge for some super moves in a fantastic position. Craig climbed through and we headed for what the guide book called easier ground, but our keen nose for a line had us seek out difficult loose ground instead. 8.30pm (dusk) and we are weaving our way across the Orion face, Zero Gully and eventually topping out of Slav Route and Ben Summit at 9.17pm (see photo below for route).

Handshake, hug (for surviving what was an epic long climb), pic, half a sarnie and we bundle the gear as quickly as possible into our sacks and head for the tourist track under the cover of darkness.

Coke, fish & chips, cramp in the car (me) big Z'zzzz (Craig) and we are home in Glasgow 23hrs later at 3am.

What a day, what a climb, what a team ...Epic.

More detail and pics can be found on Craig’s blog http://outactive.blogspot.com

The Orion and Minus faces of North East Buttress with the Long Climb in Red

 Getting to the bottom of the route proved tricky

Craig following the parallel cracks (4a)

Craig 

From pitch 7 looking towards Tower Ridge

Me, serious face

Heading up the second slab pitch (4c)

Both happy to be on the summit at 9.30pm. Magic !

Boston

Sunday 17 April 2011

Stephen is heading to Boston with his wife Caity to live and work on the 3rd May. He has always wanted to climb the Cobbler so at short notice and with a good forecast off we went. Just over 2 hrs saw us on the summit. After some photographs to take stateside we got out of the wind and ate more food than I have ever had on the hill (thanks to his mum for a great packed lunch...). As we walked back to Glen Crow it was noticeably warmer. A relaxed day, good chat and great company. Keep in touch... “wee man”.

Super alpine + (new route, Nikon Direct, E6)

 

 

10 April 2011

Winter is over but we still have our winter heads on. So, up at 4, leave house at 4.30 and meet at 5am ! With the promise of 21˚ we headed to the Cobbler. I like the transition between winter and summer climbing. The cobbler is a great climbing venue. We often climb here after work instead of single pitch crags near Glasgow. Craig led the first pitch of Recess before 7.30am It was cold, but by the time I took over it was warm and sunny. Great climbing till Craig's camera fell into space. This meant we had to climb a spurious (new ?) line to retrieve it... Camera found and working, but the pictures are still poor...

Ben A'n. The last eighty

27 March 2011

Alan (www.mcateerphotograph.com) had some outdoor photographs to take for Scottish Trade International. He needed a venue and 'models'... We arranged to meet at Ben A'n. It had been a while since I had climbed here but I knew the walk in was short, there was rock and the views stunning. The added bonus was when the photography shoot was over we could abseil down the cliff and climb some routes. Strange that only Wednesday we climbed ice ! We both led The Last Eighty in the warm early summer sun ... magic.

Corie an t-Sneachda

23 March 2011

Grand plans for Orion Direct on Ben Nevis prompted us to take Wednesday off. The promised cold spell didn’t arrive and the word on the street was that Orion was stripped. Craig, Bill and I went East to Corie an t-Sneachda. It was mild but dry. We climbed Facaill Coulior, headed down the goat track and along to the first pitch of Mirror Direct. Great away day and good to have Uncle Bill back on the tools.

Cobbler

Alpine starts are simply the best feeling ...

Difficult start. Frozen turf or frozen snow or ice would have made this easy!

Craig on pitch 2

Craig

Topping out and a big smile from me !

13 March 2011 

A huge dump of midweek snow had Craig and I head to the Cobbler. The deep snow was drifting to over 1m in places. Maclays Crack looks like a great line but the turf was not frozen. We climbed Great Gully with me leading the first pitch. The weather improved and by the time we topped out we had great views and blue sky. Fantastic.