Mind the Gap...

31 March 2012  

Craig and Bill headed for Kirroughtree for round 1 of the SXC race calender (www.sxc.org.uk) and I headed to Ben Nevis for a lap of Tower Ridge. This gives 1000m of climbing (Mod summer grade and IV,3*** Winter grade) over 500m ascent and is the most famous of all the Nevis ridges. With the new path I was at the top car park in 28mins and the SMC hut in 1hr 22 mins. The rain turned to light snow as I climbed the first 20m groove/chimney out of Douglas Gully to the ridge proper. In the mist I heard two teams above and knew that as I was soloing I would quickly catch them. Rope one was two lads from Fife and rope 2 was two RAF lads from Leuchars. Crampons and an axe was need for the Eastern Traverse as the neve was bomber hard. Being on my own I clipped the 'controversial tat' at Tower Gap as the snow was lying, the rocks slippy and my hands cold. I bridged the gap, un-clipped and made the committing pull across with the drop of Glover's chimney puling at my heals. Crampons and axe again needed for the exit to the plateau in 3hrs 45mins.

Gear off, I head for the zig zags, the red burn and sprinted past the Halfway Lochan, picking up the path and arriving with a jog back at the car in 5hrs 41 mins. Another Epic Day...

SMC Hut, Douglas Boulder & Tower Ridge with The North East Buttress on the horizon

Looking back to the Douglas Boulder from the lower part of the ridge

Happy face but cold hands...

The infamous arete leading to Tower Gap

From the Gap looking down Glover's Chimney (Grade III,4**)

RAF boys bringing up the rear...

Exit moves

And the sun comes out on the TAB back to the car, typical.

Rock n' roll summertime ...

Time sprung forward today to British summertime and with the promise of a good forecast Craig and I kept our 'alpine stars' heads on and headed to the Coe to lay hands on an old friend, Agag's Groove. Agag's never disappoints, especially as the first rock climb of the season. As planned at the top of the route we abseiled down the full length of January Jigsaw with the intention to climb this uber classic as well. Finding a rope of three readying at the bottom we coiled the ropes, had lunch in the sun and decided we had enough excitement (the abseil) for one day ...

Me high up on pitch 1

Craig leading pitch 3

Craig standing on a nubbin of rock at the top of pitch 4

The first of 2 full length abseils...

Intrinsic motivation ...

18 March 2012

1hr and 10mins from leaving the upper car park in the Coe and I was in Stob Coire nan Lochan. Only the easy gullies looked complete so being on my own I headed for Boomerang. The climbing was on good neve due to the low overnight temperatures. The weather turned wintery with some light snow showers to make it feel like winter again. On the summit the blue sky came out again so I went on a bit of a ‘journey’ taking in the tops of Bidean nam Bian and Stob Coire Sgreamach before traversing the ridge of Beinn Fhada and dropping into the Lost Valley, 9.6 kilometres later. This is my favourite Glen Coe ‘round’ and a true classic.

Stob Coire nan Lochan

Boomerang Gully from the top

The summit cone with Gearr Aonach in the background

The ridge leading to the summit of Bidean nam Bian

The ridge leading to Stob Coire Sgreamach

 Looking back to Stob Coire Sgreamach from Beinn Fhada 

 

Simply Stunning...

4 March 2012

Bill dropped Craig and I in Glen Coe. The plan was to take advantage of the overnight wintery conditions and traverse the Aonach Eagach. Famed as the narrowest ridge on the British mainland it links the Munros of Meall Dearg and Sgorr nam Fiannaidh.

The snow fall abated and we quickly gained height on Am Bodach reaching the summit of Meall Dearg in 1hr 20m. The views across to SCNL were stunning. The ridge was straightforward, but care was needed with every step,  so we roped and pitched the final pinnacles before picking a line and dropping to the Glen Coe roadside in super quick time. We rendezvoused with Bill who spent a great day micro navigating on Garbh Bheinn near Kinlochleven. Great day all round but Bill’s knee needs some TLC.

More from Craig on the Simply Epic blog here http://simplyepicadventure.blogspot.com

Looking over to Stob Coire nan Lochan

Looking back along the Aonach Eagach ridge

The missing link...

19 February 2012

Looking to make the best of the ‘fresh’ snow and colder temperatures that arrived Friday and Saturday Craig and I headed into Stob Coire Nam Beith to Climb Central Gully IV**. I led off up the first pitch but the ice was soft and booming with my axe placements. With no chance of screw placements for protection I retreated and we moved together up the gully to the right hand side. The scenery here was fantastic with many variations possible. Craig led some thin ice that was probably Grade III to take us into another gully system. From here we moved together on what turned out to be steep ground to a cave with left facing corner and chock stone. After rigging a good belay and runner, I led the left hand icy wall bridging on the chock stone before pulling over the lip (felt like grade 1V,5/6). No protection and non-existent axe placements seems to be the theme this winter. Craig followed and then we moved together through iced up rocks to the summit. Great route that was more of a ‘journey’ linking many routes on this great face. Loads of people on SCNL and Bidean summits.

More from Craig here on Simply Epic Adventure blog

Aonach Eagach in the morning Alpinglow

Soft and booming ice...

Craig on thin ice

Easier ground on the upper couloir 

Me on the final technical moves

 

Happy faces

Solo...

12 February 2012

I headed into Stob Coire Nam Beith on Sunday to see what the mild weather had done to the climbing conditions. 1hr and 5mins had me at the foot of Summit Gully. This 500m route curves it way to the summit. I made holes in the snow to my knees all the way. There is still ice low down but with today’s 8º+ forecast I am sure it won't last. Heading down there was evidence of earlier avalanche activity. Fingers crossed it gets cold soon.

 

No need to be a dead hero ...

3/2/12

Glen Coe 3/2/12. Strong SW-W winds, heavy snow, Deep w.slab, sheltered gullies and N-E-SE slopes 700 m+ avalanches will occur. Hazard High, hmmm need to be super careful.

We headed to North Buttress of Buachille Etive Mor. (I climbed this route before many years ago with Peter before I knew what grades were). After a week of cold temperatures the forecast Westerly won the battle (in the west anyway) and the temperature shot up overnight. Crampons on early to negotiate the steep verglased slabs and rocky ground held us up as did being the rope no 2 on the route. I led up the first chimney getting my foot stuck and having to down climb to free. Climbing on I suddenly felt light headed and had a white out moment, probably due to looking down for a long period then quickly looking up. That and V cold hands I guess. Anyway, I reached a big block and threw a sling round it and clipped in. Craig exercised our climbing motto on my behalf and I abseiled down for soup and sarnie. Decision made that we should bail ASAP. We abed down to easier ground and crabbed round to the base of curved ridge where we chipped out a horn (American term, google it) and abseiled to easier ground. We walked out over fast melting ice. Good day regardless and in the words of the legend that is Don Whillians, “the mountain will be there tomorrow-the trick is to make sure you are.

7 days that had me in stitches...

23 - 29th January

Winter ML training last week, Monday on Aonach Mor looking at step cutting, ice axe arrest and crampon work as well as lots of snowpack analysis. Tuesday confidence roping on the Ben (+ snowpack analysis). Wednesday more rope work, anchors and snowpack analysis on Beinn a Chaorainn. Thursday we journeyed into Craig Meggie and spent 4 hrs digging snow holes before some night navigation and a balmy night at –1ºC. Friday the journey continued with a 30min stop for us to dig personal snow shelters and loads more snowpack analysis.  Saturday, back on the Ben traversing onto the upper half of “Ledge Route” from no 5 gully; looking at managing clients on grade 1 ground.  Some “white out” navigation to the top of number 4 gully, bollards and stompers over the cornice lip and more confidence roping to finish the day. Sunday we beasted into SCNL to take security on steep ground to new heights with Craig and I climbing Twisting 111*** and Becki & Casper climbed NC and Dorsal. 

A Great but very physical week with loads of learning, new friends made, and 3 stitches to close a deep crampon wound to my hand on day 2.

Winters back

15 January 2012

Wintery on the tops today with the ground well frozen and patches of ice and bomber hard neve on Ben Donic. This is a great hill for a short day with lots of interesting rock features. Jane did well as we led the way in the mist and high wind chill to the summit for soup, coffee and cake ! Craig was having a Simply Epic mountain biking day with Peter and co. http://outactive.blogspot.com and Bill was having a well earned rest...

 

 

The Germans are coming ...

6am, A82, 8º, stag keeping roadside watch, wave to the lucky tree, head-torch, North Buttress ... 8am Daylight, route stripped, we head to North East Zig-Zags. This is a Jimmy Marshall route that terminates on North Buttress (I don’t know anyone who has climbed this). Pitch one and I "bail", it looked wintery but it was all slush. We swim down Crowberry Gully and across to Curved Ridge. This is the 3rd time I have climbed this route in 6 weeks. I agree with Craig, it`s a great route that goes in any condition and always provides “sport”. For sport we climb and move together till after the "open book corner, " then “bail” (bailing is often more exciting that climbing). 3 full length abseils and some down-climbing made for an interesting and exciting day.