Wanderings...

25 August 2012
Great morning climbing the first 3 pitches of January Jigsaw (s) and the last pitch of Satins Slit (VS). The alpine start meant we had the face to ourselves and managed to outflank the incoming rain and wind.

Craig was climbing well on his first climb back after his wee accident in the Alps.

Some images from the last couple of weeks showing and impressive land slide and some alpine’s that are out at the moment.

More here on the Simply Epic Website

Me on lead, pitch 2

Craig, "walking the walk" on pitch 3

Craig following up the last pitch of Satin's Slit

Devil's-bit scabious

Exposed bedrock

Self heal

Le Mistral...

12 August 2012

It was windy and Buachaille Etive Mòr was covered in mist as Bill and I headed up to the Ranoch Wall from Jacksonville. We had planned to climb January Jigsaw but the CLAG and high winds made us change our minds to Agag's Grove instead. This route never disappoints and is great climbing for its grade. We came down a busy curved ridge as the sun came out and headed home. Lots of great Alpine flowers out just now.

Buachaille Etive Mòr and the Rannoch Wall in the mist

Bill nearing the top of the first pitch

The Nights are Fair Drawing in...

Making the best of a mid-week (evening) weather window, Bill and I climbed the Jock Nimlin 1935 classic, Recess Route. This never disappoints, and was made all the more exciting by climbing the last pitch in the dark ! Off the hill by 12.05 and home by 12.45am

(MCoS grade this as Severe and not VD and I think that’s spot on).

 

 

Climbing that left us with a bit of a Void...

30 June 2012

This years Alps trip was a bit of a mixed bag with unsettled stormy weather across Europe. We arrived in hot sunny weather and raced up to the Midi station in the hope of getting a route done but had to contend with (due to cable car times) a quick walk on the Vallee Blanche. The weather report was spot on and it rained for 48 hrs leaving many teams stranded in high huts. We were lucky enough to beat a retreat to Anacy for coffee and cake.

Craig on the upper Vallee Blanche

With a short weather window we climbed the uber-classic Cosmic arête arriving on the midi viewing platform to the applause of the surprised Japanese tourists. Lots of pictures were taken and we felt like conquering hero's with one man telling his companions that we climbed Mont Blanc and another Everest. We spent the afternoon at the 'guides crag' climbing 3 pitch bolted routes, fantastic. 

Midi Plan traverse stretching out in front of us

Low down on the Cosmic Arete

Rigging the abseil

Abseiling the Great tower

The difficult crack

The Piton Sud

Looking across to Italy and the Dent du Geant

With high winds the following day the Midi cable car was closed so we headed up La Flégère-Index to climb la Chapelle de la Gliere on the Aiguilles Rouges. We managed 4 pitches before the rain and wind caught us up. We rethreaded a found peg with some 6mm cord, backed this up and Craig was lowered into the mist to see where it went. It went and we continued to abseil to the base and back to the valley for more cake and coffee.

Another bail...

The next day with an am weather window we decided to climb the Chevalier Couloir on Petite Aiguille Verte. The bergschrund was difficult and by the time we established ourselves on pitch one the sun was working its magic on the upper slopes and we were in the firing line for small stones and rocks whizzing past us like bullets. We bailed and headed for home. This was not without its dangers as the snow was now soft on the glacier ...

Chevalier Couloir

Argentiere glacier 

The CLAG in the Chamonix Valley was just above the tree’s for the remaining days so we contented ourselves checking out other climbing and biking venues in the Haute Savoie.


Good to meet Bill and Eileen in the happy bus on our last evening for dinner, beer and stories...

Oh deer ...

18 June 2012
I beat my PB by 7mins on Monday night, phew, must have been the cool breeze or me moving like a stag uphill with my (found) antler. 

Good chat on the summit with Paddy and his amazing and well behaved rock climbing dog.

Neilston re advancement ...

Craig and I headed to Neilston Quarry for a bit of a crevasse rescue refresher. Unperturbed by the lack of glacier and indeed crevasse we hauled and rescued each other up and down the cliff, much to the amazement of some other climbers. Sunday’s forecast was poor so I headed up ‘the three peaks’ for a bit of a work out. Mist and rain followed me over the tops and back to the car in super quick time. This is a great route that really works your legs and was just what I needed... 

The Brack

3 June 2012

An easy day to stretch the legs was needed so we headed for the Brack. This is a Great hill with fantastic views across the Arrochar alps. Loads of wild flowers out including common spotted orchids and starry saxifrage. On the way down we met two inspirational ladies who have only 3 Munro's to climb to complete Sir Hugh's classic table of 283 mountains in Scotland with a height of 3000ft or move above sea level.

Hands on...

1 June 2012
An early finish on Friday had Craig and I head up the cobbler for a much needed climb in preparation for our Alps trip this year. We climbed the first two pitches of Recess then finished up Incubator. Great climbing, in fantastic surroundings, on a clear night, but the wee blighters were out, so we moved fast from the col, and made it back to the car shaving 5 mins off Monday's time (and that was with us lugging all the climbing gear). More on the epic blog here http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk

Sunset over Beinn Ime

Sew unique...

28 May 2012

Quick blast last night from Glen Crow car park to the Cobbler summit in 1hr 1min – “threaded the needle” then back to the car in 34mins. Fast but could be faster if it was cooler than 23º

Nice night and I had the hill to myself.

Sunset over Beinn an Lochain

Common Butterwort in flower

Three peaks...

20 May 2012

I ran (with winter boots on) up the Cobbler then down to Bealach a’ Mhaim then up Beinn Narnain back down to the Bealach and up to the summit of Beinn Ime in 2hrs 50min, phew. Heading off the hill in the direction of Beinn Luibhean’s lower slopes and back to the car at Glencroe all in 3hrs 39mins... It was running a temperature by then...

Beinn Narnain (L) and The Cobbler (R)

Beinn Ime

Tour of duty ...

13 May 2012
Craig and I went for an Alps training day in Glen Coe with light sacs, big boots and little food the aim of the day was to move fast.

We headed up the Zig Zags, to the east ridge of Stob Corrie nan Lochan then to Bidean nam Bian, then over to Stob Coire Sgreamach before traversing the Beinn Fhada ridge and dropping down into the Lost Valley and back to the car in just over 6hrs. Not bad for 3193m of climbing over the 9.6K journey.
More here on the Simply Epic blog with a great video of the day by Craig.

Countdown...

22/4/12

Jane needed some fresh mountain air so we headed down Glen Luss and climbed Beinn Eich and Doune Hill, both hills just over 700m. The weather and visibility were good so we made good time and dropped into Glen Mollochan for the 4.5k march to the car. A great day with some interesting early alpines, split rocks, frog spawn and 8 dead sheep all within 5m of each other (very odd). The nearest farm house is called Edentaggart... I was tempted to see if he was in.

 

Lousewort

Easy Uphill

Split Schist

Raptors cough-up these 'fur balls'. When you break them open they often contain bone fragments

Spooky melting ice

Alpine Violet

Looking back towards Eeinn Eich from Doune Hill