Redemption ...

29/9/11

We headed up the hill in the dark with the CLAG at 100m and temperature reading 19º. Craig was keen to put some demons to rest after Saturday's minor errors. He did very well not being phased by features crossed but not on the 1:50 map. Visibility (because of the CLAG) was about 10m so it really was extreme, but he was spot on. We found a nice sheltered area for the now obligatory tomato soup and oddball combo sarnie before heading back into the darkness and mist for some more of the same. My head torch began to fail so by 11.30 it was time to head for home.

I was sporting my new Arc'Teryx Venta Hoodie soft shell bought from www.moosejaw.com in the States (not available in the UK), delivered to ‘the wee man’ for him to ship across the pond. This jacket has been halfway round the world already !

We are now on countdown to assessment...

Button hole...

24 September 2011

In an effort to find Craig more challenging navigation ground we headed up Stob nan Coinnich above Ardlui. This is really good ground apart from the bracken slopes lower down. Lots and lots of contour interpretation using 1:50 maps which proved challenging even with 100% visibility. After Lunch (tomato btw) we did some rigging of simple lowers and abseils using a variety of rock features as anchors. The key focus here is keep it simple and be slick and err, “keep it simple”. Craig did well despite the odd "blonde" and senior moment.

Looking forward to more tomato soup on Thursday PM 

If it's tomato soup...

20 September 2011

...it must be Tuesday and more night navigation with Craig this time on the hills down Glen Luss. Looking forward to Saturday and who knows what flavour of soup.

Addicts...

13/9/11

Despite the severe weather warnings on the back of hurricane Katia Craig and I headed onto the hill for some more mid-week night navigation. Heavy rain and CLAG made for zero visibility and great training conditions. Craig had 100% success for the set navigation points I asked him to find.

Great jet-boiled tomato soup, sarnie and crisps courtesy of Craig as we sheltered behind a rock in the pitch dark.

A good humoured Northern Constabulary, who were on patrol, were there to greet us as we got back to the car (they spotted our head torches).

Black Magic

8th September 2011

More midweek night navigation with Craig. Hand railing is key backed up with timing and pacing ... its addictive.

Interesting rock (mica schist) fracture

Craig counting contours ...

No map, no compass, no head torch, no wonder he's lost.

Pea Souper...

Heavy rain and CLAG did not prevent us from plodding up Beinn Ime. The Streams were all in spate so we contoured round the hill and hand-railed our way to the summit using various features. Craig would have enjoyed but he was busy looking after some bikers !

Nav Nav Nav...

27 August 20011 

The uber poisonous Devils Matchstick 

 

On the hill with Craig ... timing, pacing, abseil and security on steep ground...

The dark art ...

25 August 2011

With Craig's ML Summer Assessment fast approaching he was keen to get out in the dark. He has put in loads of ground work so his navigation was spot on ... 

4Hrs later and still on the same spot !

Nice beard

29/7/11

Before heading to Cham we had a quick walk (2hrs) to the Almageller Alp Hotel (not the hut, that’s another 2 hrs away). We had passed this way before when climbing the Weissmies (4023m) by the South East Ridge and knew it was good for coffee. Just in time for the sun to come out... Typical.

All in a very good trip making the best of the mixed weather, climbing things we know and the VB traverse was, special.

Into the Mist

29/7/11 (am)
The weather never improved as forecast but we headed back up the hill with no real expectations of getting far on the Alphubel. Rock ridge to Feechopf (3888m) about turn and head to the valley for coffee and cake. This is a tricky traverse that needs clear conditions as the decent to the Langflue hut is very crevassed. Good reckie and another 3,000m summit done.

Going for a look...

28/7/11
A brief overnight stop at Lake Maggiore until the rain caught up and had us heading to Sass Grund. Overnight at the Heino and late start to check out the Alphubel for the following day. As often is the case the uplift system takes you above the clouds and with mixed conditions we headed for the Alphubeljoch (3782m) to stretch our legs. Moving well and feeling comfortable in the misty conditions we headed for the normal route on the Allalinhorn (4027m), We had climbed this peak by its more technical and longer Hohlaubgrat route 3 years ago and used the normal route for descent. We had the summit to ourselves for 10 mins before an other party arrived in time to take some pics.

Allalinhorn (4027m)

Tour Ronde

26/7/11 

I had climbed this North Face with Chris 4 years ago. Our descent by the normal route had always been a plan for us to do as it can be done from the first lift. Great day despite the weather closing in...

The North Face route is the face on the right

Is it a Cliff bar ?

25/7/11 

The rain had deposited 1m of new snow on the Aiguille du Midi. Undeterred and with a weather window we headed to the Midi for the first lift. The exit from the ice cave and down the Arête du Midi was exciting as ever with seemingly the world at your feet.

Looking back up the ridge to Aiguille du Midi.

Nearing the bottom of the ridge nicknamed "the walk of death" 

The top of the Frendo Spur and Chamonix 3,600m below

This is the “walk of angels” and not the “walk of death” as its sometimes called. We stopped briefly above the Frendo Spur before swinging beneath the Pilastre SE and headed for the Col du Gros Rognon, passing beneath the North Face of Mont Blanc du Tacul to traverse La Vallee Blanche.

With no other parties and perfect conditions we had time to soak up the atmosphere as we headed for the Aiguilles du Diable, Petit and Grand Capucin, Mont Maudit and the Tour Ronde.

The new snow made the crevasse section tricky but we managed with care and plugged holes all the way to Le Flambeaux Pass and Pt Helbronner for Cappuccino before riding the bubble back to Cham. A day we will always remember.

Underneath Le Petit and Grand Capucin

Brevent

24/7/11

We arrived in Chamonix to rain and reports of snow on the high ground. Undeterred we headed up the Col du Brevent and the long way round to the summit. This is a neglected mountain with loads of  possibilities for climbing and walking in fantastic surroundings. 

Brevent

Alps 2011

Here we come...

More, more, more !

1 July 2011

This blog is only about climbing ... But then we had a (Simply Epic CPD) boys weekend at Peter’s Chalet ! Wake boarding on the Friday, road bike on Saturday and climbing on Sunday. Fantastic weekend, fantastic location and fantastic hospitality from Peter.

I headed home and Craig and Bill headed to Torridon for a week of mountain biking ... More info and some great videos can be found on Craig's blog, http://outactive.blogspot.com

What, no baby bar !!!!

Peter showing off

The chain gang (from the left) Bill, Craig, Me and Peter