Vertical Obsession | The Climbing & Mountaineering Blog of Mark McGinnes
Monday, 29 September 2014
Wednesday, 13 August 2014
In other news...
Gerry and Murray are in the Alps just now looking for ice, rock, pizza and beer... unsettled weather continues in all alpine regions and cantons... Pic below from the summit of the Allalinhorn (4,027m) with the Rimpfischhorn in the background.
Wednesday, 16 July 2014
Copacabana…
Alps 2014
Arriving in Geneva again to poor weather and then to Chaminox to the Midi lift closed due to high winds, Craig and I knew they were already onto plan E.
Next day, the CLAG filled the valley and the rock was wet so we headed up into the mist to find the Cosmique Arete. This was a good idea and we found conditions good on route with the odd sunny spell between the clap of thunder and the sound of avalanches happening in the distance.
Next day with an AM weather window we headed to the Petit Vert to climb the North Face variation. It was like a cats cradle on the summit with at least 30 ropes. Abseiling down the route of ascent worked best for us on the day with café Americano at the cable way café and some demons exercised.
Next up, the Cosmique Arete again this time in super Scottish conditions. We moved fast overtaking all guided and non guided parties on route to finish in super fast time on the platform.
The weather over the next couple of days looked poor for all of the alpine regions so we headed out of the valley to Sass Grund to check it was still there. It was and so was Golda and the warm and relaxed Heino hotel. We headed up on the hill the next day for the Alallinhorn by the normal route but with 600mm of new unstable snow/graupel it was never going to happen. We dug some pits and decided to return to Feltskin and walk to the Brittiania Hut for Coffeesnapps. In the afternoon we headed up to Hohsass to look at the Weismiss, which was hidden mostly in cloud.
We headed back to Cham in the rain taking in Zermatt for coffee and a look for a new bazzy (baseball cap) for Craig.
It had rained non stop in the valley while we were in Switzerland so the only safe option was, yes the Cosmique Arete again, this had totally changed in character with most of the route buried; indeed the crux crack was a good metre shorter than the previous journeys. The route was busy with mostly guided parties (French Itallian and German) so at the usual bottle necks we tried our best bumming food, starting a snowball fight and trying to get an international choir going…
Feeling acclimatised and seeing a weather window for our last full day, up again we went with 3 routes in mind. We burst through the cloud and had decent vis on the Valley Blanc so plan A it had to be and off we plodded in direction of the Triangle du Tacul and the Chere Couloir.
This gives good climbing on 60-80º ice and feels very Scottish in character (especially when it started snowing) and is quite reminiscent (to us anyway) of Point 5 and Green Gully on the Ben. Some super slick abseiling had us back on the VB, packed and heading for the slog up the 'walk of death' before we descended into the mist and rain of the valley.
All in a great trip making the best of the conditions, the Pizza at Casa Valerie and the beer at Monkey.
Testing some new kit, the Bergelmit Jackets and Vanir Salopettes performed very well with the mixed conditions and getting the "eye" on route and in town, thanks Tommy.
Some pics from the trip...
Arriving in Geneva again to poor weather and then to Chaminox to the Midi lift closed due to high winds, Craig and I knew they were already onto plan E.
Next day, the CLAG filled the valley and the rock was wet so we headed up into the mist to find the Cosmique Arete. This was a good idea and we found conditions good on route with the odd sunny spell between the clap of thunder and the sound of avalanches happening in the distance.
Next day with an AM weather window we headed to the Petit Vert to climb the North Face variation. It was like a cats cradle on the summit with at least 30 ropes. Abseiling down the route of ascent worked best for us on the day with café Americano at the cable way café and some demons exercised.
Next up, the Cosmique Arete again this time in super Scottish conditions. We moved fast overtaking all guided and non guided parties on route to finish in super fast time on the platform.
The weather over the next couple of days looked poor for all of the alpine regions so we headed out of the valley to Sass Grund to check it was still there. It was and so was Golda and the warm and relaxed Heino hotel. We headed up on the hill the next day for the Alallinhorn by the normal route but with 600mm of new unstable snow/graupel it was never going to happen. We dug some pits and decided to return to Feltskin and walk to the Brittiania Hut for Coffeesnapps. In the afternoon we headed up to Hohsass to look at the Weismiss, which was hidden mostly in cloud.
We headed back to Cham in the rain taking in Zermatt for coffee and a look for a new bazzy (baseball cap) for Craig.
It had rained non stop in the valley while we were in Switzerland so the only safe option was, yes the Cosmique Arete again, this had totally changed in character with most of the route buried; indeed the crux crack was a good metre shorter than the previous journeys. The route was busy with mostly guided parties (French Itallian and German) so at the usual bottle necks we tried our best bumming food, starting a snowball fight and trying to get an international choir going…
Feeling acclimatised and seeing a weather window for our last full day, up again we went with 3 routes in mind. We burst through the cloud and had decent vis on the Valley Blanc so plan A it had to be and off we plodded in direction of the Triangle du Tacul and the Chere Couloir.
This gives good climbing on 60-80º ice and feels very Scottish in character (especially when it started snowing) and is quite reminiscent (to us anyway) of Point 5 and Green Gully on the Ben. Some super slick abseiling had us back on the VB, packed and heading for the slog up the 'walk of death' before we descended into the mist and rain of the valley.
All in a great trip making the best of the conditions, the Pizza at Casa Valerie and the beer at Monkey.
Testing some new kit, the Bergelmit Jackets and Vanir Salopettes performed very well with the mixed conditions and getting the "eye" on route and in town, thanks Tommy.
Some pics from the trip...
Wednesday, 11 June 2014
3 mins...
Feeling like I needed to give my legs and lungs a workout I heading up the front face of the Cobbler from Glen Crow for my favorite beasting ... Cobbler - Bealach a’ Mhaim - Beinn Narnain back down to the Bealach and up to the summit of
Beinn Ime in 2hrs 53min,
A full 3 mins slower than the last time (here). If I run off the Cobbler and Beinn Narnain I bet I could shave 10 mins easy !
No pics today.
A full 3 mins slower than the last time (here). If I run off the Cobbler and Beinn Narnain I bet I could shave 10 mins easy !
No pics today.
Its all in the maths…
31 May 2013
Gerry, Murray and I headed to Buachaille Etive Mor on Saturday to climb North Face Route (S4a). The day started with wet feet crossing the river at Jackson Ville , but the sun was out and it was warm on the walk.
I headed up the first pitch and then Gerry and I swung leads over 8 pitches on immaculate rock. Climbing as a three is a bit off a faff but the belays are more sociable and Murray gets to take loads of pics when not on belay duty.
We down climbed curved ridge and headed for the hut in the sunshine.
A 5 star day with a dook in the river to finish… movie here on the steaming boots movie channel.
Gerry, Murray and I headed to Buachaille Etive Mor on Saturday to climb North Face Route (S4a). The day started with wet feet crossing the river at Jackson Ville , but the sun was out and it was warm on the walk.
I headed up the first pitch and then Gerry and I swung leads over 8 pitches on immaculate rock. Climbing as a three is a bit off a faff but the belays are more sociable and Murray gets to take loads of pics when not on belay duty.
We down climbed curved ridge and headed for the hut in the sunshine.
A 5 star day with a dook in the river to finish… movie here on the steaming boots movie channel.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)