Gerry and I took advantage of the good forecast and headed North to Binnein Shuas. We walked up the estate track with various overnight camping teams heading out in what can only be described as July weather.
We tossed the wee blue lip balm tin to see who was first up and I win. Gerry had climbed the route many years before with George so it seemed only right. We followed Gary’s description and ran the original 12m first and second pitch together.
The climbing and situation was fantastic if not a little run out on the top section, but the holds were good and with such good weather it was easy to just keep climbing. Gerry arrived at the belay looking relaxed and eager to tackle the impressive looking flake (I was slightly jealous of this to be honest). Pitch dispatched without drama and I led through on yet another great pitch on great rock with good gear. Being ‘now’ in the groove the final two pitches went by in a flash and left us feeling we wanted another 10 pitches !!!
The route is amazing and impressive in equal measures and well worth getting up early for. It’s been on Craig’s list for a while also so perhaps I'll get to lead the flake pitch sometime soon.