Craig and I headed to the Nevis range for the first lift. This worked well but the high winds meant we walked from the gondola station to the top ski hut.
Abseiling intro easy gully gave respite from the wind but the CLAG meant finding routes difficult. We walked until we found Left Twin, we soloed the first pitch and Craig led the ice fall; this was in great knick and felt 4 rather than 3 today.
We abed down again as the sky cleared revealing amazing ice everywhere, White Shark IV 4 *** looked fat so I set on up. The ice was great and took screws and to be honest felt more grade 5 than 4, the climbing was great on first time placements. Arriving at the belay and bringing Craig up, the wind increased so we decided to bail. This was the best decision of the day, on reflection…
We climbed out easy gully and made our way to the Gondola station only to be told 98mph gusts earlier in the day forced them to close. We headed down the cycle track and back to the car in 45mins or so.
A great day climbing on a great crag. More here on the Simply Epic website.